Buildings in the landscape

If you are new to landscape painting, avoid buildings and other man-made things. They are harder to paint. Your brushwork needs to be much more controlled, and you will probably need to step outside of my recommended colour palette.

Once you have done a painting or two, and are busting to include a picturesque building, follow these basic guidelines:

  1. One building or structure only
  2. Front on, or a flat view of the most interesting facade. Avoid, at least initially, having to apply perspective
  3. Wait for good light, preferably the warm light of evening. If the shadows are falling in an interesting way on your building, this will help to define its 3D shape without having to show the building in perspective.

:Buildings can be the main focus of your painting, or a supporting element. Let's look at some examples.

Abandoned House

I was driving down Hokio Beach Road, and spied this wonderful old abandoned farmhouse. The light was no good, so I returned later, just as the sun was about to go down. The sun is setting to the left of the building, casting long shadows in the foreground, and nicely defining the shape of the building.

I made the house fairly small in the frame, because it was in the middle of nowhere, and under a big, evening sky. Of course that made it smaller, and quicker to paint, and I am, after all, lazy!

The viewpoint is totally front-on. Again this makes it easier to paint. I have let the shadows help define its 3D shape. Alot of artists do this, including good ones! I love the work of Grahame Sydney. Look him up.

Oroua Downs Memorial Hall
 

Here is a typical New Zealand Memorial Hall. Front-on, warm light and good shadows.

Lane Marker

This is not a building, but it is an interesting structure in Wellington Harbour. I was in my kayak and took heaps of photos of it. I chose this particular view because the composition looked best. However, I don't want to talk about composition. Too many art books devote whole chapters to it. The bottom line is, if you have a choice of different images of the same scene, just choose the one that looks best to you! Don't try to figure out why, forget the Rule of Thirds, the Golden Mean, or whatever. You like it? Paint it then.

Bunker

Here is a structure - but this time we are in it. It is an observation post in a series of abandoned defensive structures around Wellington Harbour. The sunlight is slanting into the structure nicely. The strange silhouette above is a rusting steel beam. The flax was actually covering the whole scene behind, so I did a bit of virtual weeding to show my favorite hills.

Signal Box

Your buildings don't have to be beautiful or important.

Willis Street Dairy
 

Keep things as simple as you can. This is a small shop in Willis Street in Wellington. The signs on the verandah were time consuming to paint, and they required special (i.e. not my usual earthy) colours. The front windows were packed with many goodies, but these were in an area of deep shade, so I could simplfy them alot.

Karaka Bay Pier
 

This is not a building, just a simple structure. It is a supporting element, rather than the main subject. This pier is simply just a few  black and a few white lines.  Note - it is not exactly painted in black, but a mixture of my two main colours - burnt umber and ultramarine blue - as are the rocks. The whole foreground is very effective as a simple silhouette.

Paekakariki Engine Shed
 

Speaking of black, all of the paintings above, except this one, have no black in them. It is simply not needed in most landscapes.

Special Skills for Buildings and Structures

When you get around to painting man-made things, an essential skill is being able to paint straight lines. I will cover a technique called brush ruling in an up-coming post.

You will also need a little colour theory, and I will show you how to mix any colour from the subtractive primary colours. These are the extra, non earthy colours you will need to buy after your basic landscape palette of ultramarine, burnt umber, yellow ochre and raw sienna.

Sometimes a building might not be in the right place in your scene. If you can use photoshop, you can edit the scene before painting it. Move things around a little. Yes, this is cheating. Or maybe not. Some digital skills are obviously required here, which I will cover soon.

An understanding of perpective will help to cover up your cheating. This will also be covered in upcoming posts.

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Faking it!

If you are totally new to painting landscapes, I can show you how to fake it!  You will end up with a scene, put onto a canvas with paint, by your own hands....

Hang on, isn't that actually a painting? Yes it is! So you won't be faking it at all. You will be copying an image, by copying my method.

Copying is good. In the old days, would-be artists would go to a gallery, set up their equipment and copy the old masters. The copyists might not have the old master's knowledge of form, composition, light and shade, but this will begin to sink in as they copy.

These days too much emphasis is placed on understanding the theory, before you actually start doing something. I believe it is better to learn by doing.

So, take a photo, get a few tubes of paint, some brushes and a canvas, and just do it!

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Brushes

You will need three different types of brushes. For the sky, house painting brushes. When I started painting landscapes seriously ten years ago, I bought two of the best quality brushes I could find. They were oval section bristle brushes, one of 4 inch width (100mm) and one of 1 1/2 inch width (38mm). I still have them, and with care, they will last me indefinitely. I am usually a cheapskate, but I don’t like cheap house painting brushes for two reasons. Firstly, they can leave hairs in your painting, and secondly thaey have an annoying habit of dribbling trapped water down your hand at inappropriate times. This might not matter when you are painting your house, but it does matter on your masterpiece!

Next you will need at least two artist’s bristle brushes, one around size 6, the other size 10. These are inexpensive, whatever level of quality you want. Even the cheapest ones are OK. You will use these to paint most of the landscape.

Finally, for the details, a medium sable brush, number 4 – 6 in size. A synthetic equivalent will be fine. Buy a good quality brush, with care it will last indefinitely.

 

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Choosing paints – your basic colour palette

Amazingly, you only need 4 basic colours to paint most landscapes, and none of them are green! These colours are ultramarine blue, burnt umber, yellow ochre and raw sienna.

Use acrylic paints from a reputable brand - like Pebeo, Windsor and Newton, Golden, Rowney, Grumbacher, or Liquitex. Artists acrylic can be expensive, but most brands offer two levels of quality. Pebeo have the Extra Fine  and Studio ranges. Windsor and Newton have the Artists and Galeria ranges. Either level of quality is fine. Don't ever use school grade or student acrylic. These can fade over time.

 My technique is not heavy on paint usage, and requires few colours, so good paints won’t cost you much more. Don't buy a ready made set. You won't need half of the colours.

 You will need a few other colours, especially if you are including buildings and other man-made elements in the painting. I use the subtractive primary colours. Any colour can be mixed from them. These are: magenta, cyan and primary yellow.

And OK, buy some black. You may need a small amount eventually.

Plus - for the sky, house paint. I usually buy test pots. More on this later.

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Choosing a suitable scene

There are two main considerations in choosing an scene to paint. First and foremost the scene has to be beautiful. Secondly, the scene needs to be easy to paint.

1. A Beautiful Scene

Your painting ultimately has to be one that someone would be pleased to have on their wall for years.

In my particular style - realism - the painting has to make you think that you are there. As you look at the painting, the walls of the room melt away, and you are standing on the southern walkway, watching the late afternoon shadows drift across the hills under a beautifully variegated sky...

I suggest you choose something from your local area. You should always have a digital camera with you, and take plenty of photographs. The wonderful thing about digital photos is that they are essentially free, until you print them.

My favourite area is the entrance of Wellington Harbour. If you look at the my gallery page, you will see many variations on this landscape. Most of the views are within walking distance of my house.

Buildings and other man-made things?

Keep these to a minimum. I prefer to have just one man-made element. It may be the subject of the painting, or just a supporting element.

2. Ease of Painting

The scene you choose needs to have:

  • deep, well defined shadows
  • clear skies - no clouds, at least when you are beginning
  • warm light - optional, but people seem to have a preference evening light. This is also when shadows a deeper and better defined.

Check out this example:

Wellington Heads on a winter morning

Deep, well defined shadows

This scene has nice, deep, well defined shadows. I know from long experience of painting this area that the best light is on either winter mornings or summer evenings. These deep shadows give real 3D shape to the hills, and they simplify the shapes that the painter has to put on the canvas. It is almost a "paint by numbers" scene.

Clear sky

There are some clouds here, but they are not casting any shadows on the hills, so we can safely eliminate them from the picture. Clouds are difficult to paint, and luckily most people seem to prefer paintings without them.

Warm light

By warm light, I mean an overall colouring to the scene that is towards the red/orange end of the spectrum. In other words, the colours you get towards sunset. Unfortunately we don't have that here. However, two out of three aint bad. The other two options above are essential in your first landscapes. Warm light is a nice option to have.

I have discovered, having sold quite a few paintings over the years, that people prefer the warmer evening light.

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